Step Aside HP1189 – I have a new favourite T

It’s Hotpatterns 1121 Riviera Cote D’Azur.  It’s a little more involved than HP1189, and I can’t make one in two hours (yet?), but after making one, I liked it so much I cut out three more on a lay.

• Size range (with measurements) – 6 – 26; 26 is 52B/44W/52H
• What size did you make? – I chose a size 20 based on my high bust measurement of 46″, then added a 2″ FBA.
• What are your measurements, height, and body type?
  • 5’3″; 50B/46-48W depending on the time of the month/54H; I wear a 40DD bra
• What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
  • I did a 2″FBA.  For my muslin, I just left it as is with a dart created; for my FOs I rotated the dart into some more tummy room, plus deeper gathers at the bust.  On most hotpatterns, the FBA adds enough room through the front that I don’t need to add more tummy room, but this one seems to be cut a bit slimmer through the waist
  • I added 2″ to the biceps by lowering the opening on the cut-on cap sleeve
  • I have a longer than average torso, but I found the cut line for the T-shirt version made it very, very long on me.  I shortened it 4″, and might shorten future versions another 2″
  • I would say I spent under an hour on alterations
• What fabric did you use?
  • A beefy cotton T-knit for the first one (only OK) and super-soft viscose jersey for the next three (delicious)
• What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
  • Construction was straighforward.  The instructions were very clear.  I really liked the method for creating nice, even gathers at the center front, and for creating a nice pointy V in the neckband.  I did run into trouble with the neckband though, it seems very, very short compared to the neck-hole it has to bind.  After quite a bit of fighting and puckered necklines and seam ripping and cussing, I gave in and recut my neckbands 2″ longer and then they worked fine.
• How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
  • The original pattern was designed for somebody more hourglassy than me, but it was easy enough to adjust it to work for my shape.  The style, once you get the fit working, is likely to be universally flattering.
• Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
  • I will make this again and again and again.
  • I might reduce how much I increased the bicep space – maybe just add 1″ instead of 2″?
  • I might shorten it another 2″
• Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
  • Cut your neck band about 2″ longer than the pattern piece, unless you’re working with something ridiculously stretchy.

Rating:

Size Range (1-5) – 3.  Looking at it specifically from the perspective of plus-size sewing, I would really like to see a higher size range.
Instructions (1-5)  – 5. Super straightforward
Construction Process (1-5) – 5. Super straightforward
Final Fit (1-5)  – 5. Once I adapted the pattern to my shape, it worked great.  The center front and back seams, and the bust gathers, make it easy to adjust.
Overall Rating (1-5) + Explanation – 4. I would almost give this pattern a 5-star rating, but the issue with the neckband takes it down half a notch, as does the somewhat limited top end of the size range.  Nonetheless, I highly recommend this pattern, as long as you cut the neckband longer than the pattern piece and test it before sewing it in for real.